I’m just starting to use Silky Leash method. It’s a game changer for me, but I’m just starting. Basically, the idea is to really build value for coming in the direction of slight pressure on the lead, instead of pulling against it. I haven’t built up to distractions, yet, and while we work on this, I’m using a harness anytime I’m not training this method, so we don’t get used to pulling against the collar (which she does when excited, so we’re both having to learn new behaviors here).

Here is some info: Lesson 17: (Leash Training) Silky Leash Method | Grisha Stewart

This is the first time I’ve ever used it. I’ve trained using other methods over the 35 years I’ve been training my pets…but I’m not a professional nor a competitor. Just someone who likes well trained pets I can take anywhere.

 

I’m just starting to use Silky Leash method. It’s a game changer for me, but I’m just starting. Basically, the idea is to really build value for coming in the direction of slight pressure on the lead, instead of pulling against it. I haven’t built up to distractions, yet, and while we work on this, I’m using a harness anytime I’m not training this method, so we don’t get used to pulling against the collar (which she does when excited, so we’re both having to learn new behaviors here).

Here is some info: Lesson 17: (Leash Training) Silky Leash Method | Grisha Stewart

This is the first time I’ve ever used it. I’ve trained using other methods over the 35 years I’ve been training my pets…but I’m not a professional nor a competitor. Just someone who likes well trained pets I can take anywhere.

BTW - at 13 weeks, my pup walked well on a loose lead. In our AKC STAR puppy class, had trainers ask if she was bred for service work. Made me look awesome at the time…BUT the real reason was that she lacked confidence, so she tended to hang close. As she became more confident, she began pulling in the next class we took (puppy obedience). I can’t attest to a final result with silky leash, but it makes sense to me, and it’s working as we VERY SLOWLY build to distractions.

I’m using a front clip harness (clips at chest) at all other times, as we need to be in environments that she’s not ready for emotionally to not pull. She does well at not pulling on a front clip harness, but my goal is to progress to flat collar everywhere in the future.

 

Use your voice, use a toy, make it fun and engaging. Make your pace brisk and your sessions short. Stay in less distracting places to practice till you're ready to up the difficulty. Remember that this is a LONG process. Have you taught "watch"? Where the dog sits in front of you, you hold treats in each hand and your arms straight out at the shoulder, the puppy is rewarded for making eye contact. It may take patience but eventually he will look to you for help. The second you get the contact, use your marker word (I use "yes") and quickly give the treat. Put him back in "sit" and repeat. It's a way of teaching him that focus on you is a good thing.

 

Teach how pressure works. If using a clicker grab one if using normal voice then make sure to high reward.
Use a slip leash or normal collar and throw one treat wait for them to get it, then apply gentle pressure to the lead, praise when they come back to you. Continue in a undistracted environment until they come back to you every time. Eventually move to different environments.
After doing this for a week or two start on short walks. Dont use the command heel yet. They are just learning to walk well on the leash. Do as said above if they start pulling dont move wait for them to come back.
If you want a heel this should help the start of it.
Same concept throw the treat wait for them to start coming back praise once they get to your side and then lure them to heel position.

I found with my two atleast, my male attached to me and more scared than our female. Heeled quickly staying right by me but on high watch. He has always been a alert pup. He heels almost perfectly, still working on a 4ft loose leash, but he does loose leash walk on a 6ft. He would have been a medical alert service dog if he didnt go reactive. Our female is a powerhouse sometimes pulling through everything. Since doing this training above walks are much easier.

 

Teach how pressure works. If using a clicker grab one if using normal voice then make sure to high reward.
Use a slip leash or normal collar and throw one treat wait for them to get it, then apply gentle pressure to the lead, praise when they come back to you. Continue in a undistracted environment until they come back to you every time. Eventually move to different environments.
After doing this for a week or two start on short walks. Dont use the command heel yet. They are just learning to walk well on the leash. Do as said above if they start pulling dont move wait for them to come back.
If you want a heel this should help the start of it.
Same concept throw the treat wait for them to start coming back praise once they get to your side and then lure them to heel position.

I found with my two atleast, my male attached to me and more scared than our female. Heeled quickly staying right by me but on high watch. He has always been a alert pup. He heels almost perfectly, still working on a 4ft loose leash, but he does loose leash walk on a 6ft. He would have been a medical alert service dog if he didnt go reactive. Our female is a powerhouse sometimes pulling through everything. Since doing this training above walks are much easier.

Agree with this post. Pressure work was critical for my dog. He had to learn first what the leash means and what pressure means. They don't know unless we teach them.

 

With my most recent puppy I used Denise Fenzi's "Circle method" to teach loose leash walking and used a front clip harness any time the dog was being walked in a situation where he might be tempted to pull.

You might be able to find general guidance on how to teach the circle method by Googling it, but you might want to consider this Fenzi online/self-paced course as well: Fenzi Dog Sports Academy - LS140: Stop Leash Pulling: Multiple Methods to Loose Leash Walking

If you aren't familiar with Fenzi, they are a +R online training community with many great resources.

Susan Garrett and Kikopup also have some great online resources.

 

One thing that helps at this young age is to do the majority of walks somewhere where you can use a long line (safely, at this age puppy is not fully vaccinated so avoid parks where lots of dogs go). But an empty parking lot is great.

Use the long line and let the puppy explore. When puppy wanders back to you, give a HIGH value reward. Keep rewarding puppy when he volunteers to come near you.

Eventually when it's safe you can do this in a park, and then gradually shift to rewarding when pup is at your side. When you walk if he wanders ahead make some noises to get his attention. If he comes back to you, reward heavily. This is also great foundation for recall.

This way helps build value for walking near you.

It is a process and if needed (when old enough) you can use a tool to help mitigate pulling while you keep training. Eventually you won't need any tools and can walk just on a flat collar or harness.

 

For a pup that young, get the dog to follow a treat in your hand. Once he gets that, hold a treat down at your side with your left hand and fingers with treat facing rear so the pup can follow it basically at a heel position with the leash held loosely with your other hand. Work on walking him like this with lots of direction changes. Make it fun. Use some term when you do this (not heel, that comes later). I used to say something like let's walk or walk, with me.

Once he gets it, start moving your practice area out to where there are more distractions. Suggest doing this on a road, driveway or parking lot where you don't have the distractions of a grassy area. It will take lots of repetition to get to the point where you can take him on any meaningful walk. Once he gets it, it's also a good time to put some walking sits in the routine, and get him used to sitting at your side every time you stop.

There will be a time when he will seem to forget all you thought him early, and you will have to teach him about leash pressure, but you aren't there yet.