Big question is why not a common sense approach first before you start "shocking" your dog? (which I don't have a problem with when it comes to animals who are untrainable jerks - like my cat jumping on my dresser and knocking my earrings and other stuff on the floor every single chance he gets - if they make zap collars for cats, I'm on that - although, I do suspect that a collar that squirts water on my cat's head would work just as well
1. When you are not home - your dog does not get free reign of the house.
2. Clean up the kitchen. Don't leave food items out in the dog's reach.
3. Your dog is not trained. Recognize that your "uh uh" means nothing to your dog, because odds are you have not loaded a correction behind those words.
When doing "leave it" training - you want to have a correction behind the word "No" or "leave it".
If you are a "positive-submissive" type of trainer, this usually means you going "uhuh" and pulling the dog away with you in a different direction. Being pulled away is a benign form of the leash correction.
If you are going for a more direct correction, I would simply do a pop correction with the leash any time your dog goes towards something that he should not have which is in his reach. This verbal "NO" + pop correction should be timed correctly so the dog connects the word "NO" with a correction. This is not a "punishment" - it is an interruption to whatever the dog doing. And might add, could save the dog's life or avoid disaster, depending on the situation.
I'll give you an example.
I was at a dog show last weekend and after doing all the conformation stuff (my dog won, btw), I took him off leash to do some training to reinforce something I'm working through before showing him in obedience again. This is basically practicing "recalls" with my dog getting a verbal command or a signal to drop into a down about halfway to me.
I was mindless enough to set my dog up so that we were using a sidewalk outside an entrance into a grooming barn.
This meant that at one point, I had told my dog to "come" and he was coming... and at that same moment, somebody came out with a pack of aussies.
My dog is trained so that "leave it" also includes other dogs. So I was quickly able to throw out a "STAY" command followed with a "LEAVE IT" while all these dogs passed.
The handler did not see me immediately and actually turned and came towards my dog, with her dogs bounding around mine who was frozen in a stay with his eyes locked on me while I rushed in.
All this took place in a very brief second or two and having a good "leave it" command was something that was a huge deal. Aussies aren't technically mean dogs, but there are some out there who can't handle a larger dog coming into their space.
^^ That's a pretty drastic example.
More common examples would be the ability to leave a plate of food on a low cocktail table, with dogs underfoot and in the room while you dot back and forth between the living room and the kitchen. The dogs should be trained not to touch food if it's on a table.
My guys learn that if they ignore the food while I'm eating or while it's still up on the table, I will put it down on the floor for them at a certain point and tell them "OK".
Another common sense example, would be if you drop something like corn cob or a piece of meat with a bone on it or something that the dogs would normally wolf down and injure themselves.... the dogs should have a loaded "leave it" command that they respect.
Bottom line, what I'm telling you is instead of training your dog to be afraid of your counter because it apparently hurts to jump on it....
You could be training a rock solid "leave it".
Some people do this with zap collars, but you don't need them to train your dog.
You do need to have good timing and be on the ball as far as whatever you do... load a good verbal correction.
You don't have to "hurt" your dog with corrections. They don't have to be really macho or mean. But you can't be waffly and wimpy with these dogs if you want a correction to mean anything.
Also. If you tell your dog "NO" for any reason, you need to follow through and be consistent.
Most people out there go to classes, learn all the corrections and stuff... and use them 1/2 the time. But they are all over the place with corrections and rewards. Means they are actually mindlessly rewarding the dogs when they are wrong... and constantly correcting the dogs so the dogs are just blowing them off.
Even pop corrections when the timing is off... become things the dogs blow off if the communication/timing isn't spot on.