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New puppy help-biting, etc.

547 views 8 replies 7 participants last post by  Kves13 
#1 ·
So, our new puppy, Tucker, is about 11 weeks old., and we've had him about 3 weeks. We're working on potty training, sleeping through the night, but mostly not biting.

Does anyone have any advice, tricks or suggestions to make life a bit easier right now?

Thanks!
 
#2 ·
We are right there with you! Our Kali is 11 weeks old tomorrow. (wow where did those 3 weeks go?) She's doing great with sleeping and potty training, as well as simple commands (come, sit, lay down). But, our biggest challenge is the biting! We redirect to a toy or Nyla bone. We've tried walking away, stopping playing, sternly saying NO! Does Tucker seem to bite more when he's tired? Sometimes a little time in her crate seems to help calm Kali down. I'm interested in hearing more suggestions as well!
 
#4 ·
It gets better but you have a ways to go. Consistency and redirection is key. Consistency as in no allowing play-biting on your hand one day and asking your puppy to stop the other. Keep your dog's favorite toy handy at all times so that you can gently redirect. I know all these things are easier said than done, but fact of the matter is it does get better.
 
#6 ·
Here is a copy of a page that I send home with new puppy buyers to help address puppy biting:

How to prevent and deal with puppy biting:
1. Do not allow any wrestling with your puppy.While it seems fun to do this, you are encouraging your puppy to grab you by your clothes, hands, hair and get a good hold.Suddenly you are hurt, the shirt is ripped, and the puppy is punished for biting.Even dogs can see that this is unfair and it can actually cause an increase in biting behavior.

2. Playing on the floor can increase puppy biting.Being on their level does not communicate to them their position in the family – at the bottom.Until your puppy has good manners avoid laying on the floor with them.

3. Do require the pup to sit quietly for petting, love, and affection.This helps the pup to learn how to control his impulsive behavior in order to get the petting that he loves.

4. Prevention is best so watch for signs that your pup is becoming over stimulated.I like to compare them to a 2 year old toddler who is having a meltdown.They are no longer really in control of their own behavior.Usually basic commands like sit or here are not even heard by the pup.If possible, at the first signs, place your pup in his crate for a nap.While he might object, ignore his protests and he will quickly crash.

5. Exercise is always a great prevention also.If I could give only one piece of advice to every owner it would be “a tired dog is a good dog”.The distraction of a good run leaves less energy to figure out how to be naughty.Some people like tug o war games and they can be fine if you are strong enough to play with a 70 pound adult dog.Please do not do this game if you wish your retriever to become a bird dog in the future.The last thing you need in the field is a dog that decides to play this game with a pheasant.

6. You should have a number of toys that can be chewed on by the puppy.I would use one for redirection only with a biter that is trying to get your attention to play or for mouthing behavior.Redirection is not for a puppy that is trying to increase his social status in the family by taking you out.

7. Once a pup does give you a hard bite, meant to cause pain, you should not ignore the behavior and hope that it will stop.Ignoring behavior in doggy language is acceptance for what is being done to you.Squealing and turning away can be a good tool for grade school children who are not there to discipline the pup but that should not be the adult’s primary response to a puppy that is deliberately biting them.

8. When you get a hard bite, meant to cause pain, you need to IMMEDIATELY turn to the puppy, make solid eye contact, put on your best angry actress face, grab the pup by the collar or the scruff and give him a solid, and very angry, “NO BITE”.Let the pup go and watch him from the corner of your eye.A pup that has gotten the message will retreat and watch you from across the room.A pup that has not gotten the message will circle you for another bite.Remember it is easier to attack you from behind.When he comes in for the second bite, repeat the above script but this time put him in his crate for rest.

9. Repeat step 8 with EVERY SINGLE HARD BITE.

I do not believe that puppy biting should be an ongoing problem for months. If dealt with quickly and consistently it can be stopped fairly quickly. Letting it go on will only make it worse.
 
#8 ·
Our Mandy (a.k.a. SharkMandy) is 12 weeks and we, too, are dealing with the biting. Aside from all the advice above, we fold our arms across our chest and turn away and that gets her to stop. For a few minutes.

Always having a toy on hand to put in her mouth is a good idea however Mandy looks for the hand that's holding said toy and chomps on that instead of the toy.:doh:

Wherever us parents are sitting, she likes to jump up with her front paws on us and we've worked hard on the "OFF" command and she will go into a sit position. It's working. So one thing that seems to work for us with the biting is telling her loudly and sternly, "Mandy OFF" and she immediately goes into the sit position. And looks for a treat of course. But it's a little tiny bit of progress.

Meanwhile my co-workers think I've got all these scratches from doing yardwork without gloves. Ha, little do they know they are from SharkMandy.

Good luck (to all of us new parents).
 
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