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Old 12-16-2012, 04:17 PM
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Thanks Ranger! I like how you've developed a schedule and I guess we need to do the same. I think we could adapt your schedule to something like when we get home, outside to eliminate and then supervised playtime for an hour. If the girls are getting jumped on, they can go to a different room for awhile. Then back in the crate so we can have supper, help with homework, baths, and getting the kids to bed. They usually go to bed around 8:00 to 8:30, so we could let Spike out of his crate for more playtime after they're in bed.

I'll have to look for a Kong on Amazon or something. Sounds like a great idea. I haven't seen any for sale locally unfortunately.

We have a playpen for dogs and small children. But Spike at 15 pounds could already push it around, and he's now 21 pounds. Maybe I could find things to place around it to brace it in place. Should I put a tarp or waterproof mat underneath in case he was to have an accident in the play pen?
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 12-16-2012, 04:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bentleysmom View Post
There are different opinions about clickers. Personally I've always used them because I click faster than I can say YES. Some ppl have trouble clicking, holding treats ect. It takes practice. Some ppl in our class don't use clicker and they do ok.
Yes, sit is the 1st thing I taught Bentley. They get it pretty quickly.
Okay. I'll try without then. Plus, my wife doesn't like the idea of a clicker and probably wouldn't use it, so it wouldn't be consistent.
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Old 12-16-2012, 04:27 PM
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Get a copy of My Smart Puppy and also check out their web site. (I recommend this book all the time, and no I don't work for them. ) It's very puppy-oriented and focuses on things that make the puppy easier to live with. It's also set up in levels, so you know what comes first, second, etc.

The more training the puppy gets, the more he'll get to be out of the crate, hence he'll get more training. It's all the virtuous cycle!

We never crated our puppy during dinner. We completely ignored him. He has a bed in the kitchen. So he learned to go to sleep during dinner. Weird, but true. And nice.

Goldens are very social, very physical, and very mouthy. It will help to recast those as friendly, cuddly, and playful during difficult times. At dog school last week, the teacher was showing people how to get their dogs interested in toys. (Apparently it's a common request. People want dogs that play.) Not a problem for my pup! I just had to let him know that he couldn't go over and show that other dog how to play with the toy.
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Old 12-16-2012, 04:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quilter View Post
Get a copy of My Smart Puppy and also check out their web site. (I recommend this book all the time, and no I don't work for them. ) It's very puppy-oriented and focuses on things that make the puppy easier to live with. It's also set up in levels, so you know what comes first, second, etc.

The more training the puppy gets, the more he'll get to be out of the crate, hence he'll get more training. It's all the virtuous cycle!
Thanks for the tip on the book and website. I'll definitely check them out later tonight.
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Old 12-16-2012, 06:07 PM
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Your older daughter can help in training I would definately get her invovled. You can have your daughter work on playing fetch with the pup in the back yard. Do let her chase Spike. Put Spike on a long line( you can make one with a 50ft clothes line and a snap from the hardware store). Have your daughter toss the ball when Spike goes after it and grabs tell her to say "Spike come" and reel him in if he doesnt come back after the first command. The 2 will bond and your pup will listen to her when she is taking care of him. Plus it teaches her responisblity too.
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Old 12-16-2012, 06:29 PM
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Sounds like you are getting lots of great advice! Welcome to the forum .

Cooper sometimes has trouble getting excited around little kids and has knocked them over in the past. I have found it helpful to tell the kids to hold still until the puppy settles (become "trees") and never to run from the puppy. Eventually your pup will learn not to jump....but it takes a long time and lots of practice!

Getting on a schedule as suggested by other people will help. The more you can get your puppy physical exercise (fetch,tug and chase are Cooper's favorites...but many people recommend not playing tug until your puppy knows "drop it") and menal exercise, the more he will be calm in his crate when he does need to be in there. There are many things you can do for mental exercise...
-Play hide-and-seek...have one of your kids hide with a treat or toy and then say "go get name," and help your pup search the house for that child. My husband and I do this with Cooper almost every night and he can find us every time without any help .
-Work on training: Sit, down, shake, high-five, leave it, drop it, stay, come, roll over (we did it in this order I think....but he didn't get solid on his comes until he was like 7 months old lol, now he will come even if our trainer is feeding him)
-Nose work: Hide treats around the house and have your pup find them, can also be done with a scent (1 drop of lavendar in a cup....then the pup gets treats when he finds it)
-Puzzles: Amazon.com has lots of great puzzles that you can put treats or part of your dogs dinner in, they have to figure out how to get the food out. We used these, or filled Cooper's Kongs with his dinner mixed with wet food or peanut butter or chicken broth, during dinner time to keep him busy while we were cooking/eating.
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Old 12-16-2012, 06:55 PM
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As difficult as it is for you to attend a training class, I think as a first time puppy owner you should go. It is an investment that will pay off over the lifetime of your dog. It is one thing to read a book about training and another to be in a class and be shown the correct method of training with someone there to oversee your progress.
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Old 12-16-2012, 06:55 PM
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We just brought our Charlie home 3 days ago, and so far most training comes during playtime. For example, teaching bite inhibition while the puppy and you are playing with a toy together. If (when) he bites you, say "Ow!" and stand up and ignore him for a minute. That way he learns that biting makes playtime stop. We've also starting working on the "come" command. This one is great because your wife and daughters can help. Start in the yard standing just a foot or two away from Spike holding treats.When you've got his attention (eye contact), call him to you sweetly and show him the treat. When he comes, give him the treat and tons of praise. Repeat, increasing the distance every time. Then add more people, so that Spike has to figure out who to "come" to.

Good luck! This forum is such a great resource.


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Old 12-16-2012, 08:15 PM
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I found a good book this afternoon that I purchased and already read on my Kindle. The book title is: How To Housebreak Your Dog In 7 Days. It really doesn't stress the 7 day part and the author makes it abundantly clear that it often takes longer. However, it was great in that it described a schedule to strictly enforce for the housebreaking period. Basically it's wake up and go potty, 30 minutes of supervised free time outside of the crate, food/water provided for 20 minutes only, follow with another trip outside to potty, and then crate until lunch. The process basically repeats at lunch and supper, with a longer period of supervised free time in the evening.

They say to adapt the free time as your puppy learns to hold it longer without accidents. Basically, they earn more free time as they learn more bladder control and earn our trust that they can go longer. The author also discusses correct ways to reward good behavior and correct bad behavior in the process.

The book has several sample schedules. I adapted one to our day and already printed and posted it on the fridge. The main thing I took from the book is to make a schedule and STRICTLY stick to it for those 7 days, and to reward your puppy lavishly with praise when they do the right thing.

Hopefully this will turn out well for us and Spike. We have not kept a consistent feeding and potty schedule, so Spike obviously isn't learning what we expect, but should get better with a schedule. Also, once he's learned to control his bladder better, he won't be stuck in the crate as much because we'll be able to extend his free time periods.
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Old 12-16-2012, 08:38 PM
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I would say the most important thing is to get him potty trained. Our Libbie was trained in a week. NEVER had an indoor accident since. Our breeder gave us this advice:

1) take the puppy outside after sleeping, eating or playing.
2) teach the puppy a word for going potty. We use "go pee". When the puppy goes pee, repeat the command over and over while he is doing it.
3) never try to get the puppy to do it's business for longer than 3 minutes. If he doesn't go within 3 minutes, or if he begins to play or run around, go inside and try again in a few minutes.
4) if the puppy begins to urinate or poop inside, don't say anything. Pick him up and take him outside and hopefully he will finish outside.

i would personally teach "sit" next. It can come in useful if puppy is jumping on your children. Just tell him to sit!

NEVER let him out of his crate when he whines. They can become very stubborn and if you do it once, they will whine and whine and whine until the next time you let them out. Just tell him to shush and leave the room.

As for training, I don't think a clicker is necessary. A loud "yes!" does the trick as well. Just remember to use your marker word WHEN the puppy does the right action and not a second after or before. That is how they learn that they have done the right thing.

Don't get frustrated with the little guy. Afterall, he is trying to live in a whole new world without knowing our language. He's been taken away from his momma and siblings and doesn't understand why he's now part of your family. It is your job to teach him that your family and your home is a safe environment for him.
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